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Trip Journals: Peru
April 2006
The Inca Trail to Machu Picchu Five-Day Trek
by Barbara Colliander
Note: Adventures Within Reach sent two of its staff to Peru in April to experience first-hand two of the treks offered on our web site: The Inca Trail to Machu Picchu (near Cusco) and the Santa Cruz Loop in the Cordillera Blanca (near Huaraz). This article describes the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu Trek. Future articles will tell about the Santa Cruz Loop and about various day trips (river rafting, for example) and cultural tours that are excellent additions to a Peru adventure! Let's go with Barb and Sandy now, as they relive their trek!
We are here! Where? Peru! Machu Picchu, to be exact! Much of our previous studies of South America was realized as we entered the gates to the Lost City of the Incas: Machu Picchu. The trek to get there was an equally wonderful experience.
 The city of Cusco at 11,000 feet |
Arriving in Cusco on a flight from Lima, we wonder if the altitude at 11,000 feet (3600 m) would affect us. We also wonder if we would experience rain, since we are at the end of the rainy season (November through March) .
The altitude affects us as we climb uphill to visit sights--and get to our hotel. We get out of breath easily. Since we have a few days to acclimatize, we manage well. Be sure to allow at least a day or two before your trek to get adjusted to the altitude! Then, the elevations on the Inca Trail (highest pass is 14,088 feet or 4198 m) and Machu Picchu (about 8,000 feet or 2450 m) are not so daunting. A good activity for the acclimatization day is a city tour of Cuzco (Sachsayhuaman, the Cathedral and Coricancha are included).
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The rains come and go. We would have rain before, during and after the trek, but good rain gear and a day pack cover are sufficient to keep you and your gear dry.
The outfitter used by Adventures Within Reach in Peru is an outstanding group of professional guides and cooks, and hard-working porters. The campsites are selected to be away from crowds, though you will often pass or be passed by other groups of trekkers.
This company is very conservation minded and with an Environmental Management System (EMS) is committed to sustainable development of tourism/trekking and, as such, has high standards for recycling, using biodegradable products and "leaving no trace".
THE TREK
The trek starts with a train ride from Cusco or, in our case, Ollantaytambo (enroute) to Machu Picchu. The train is filled with tourists, heading to the "Lost City" for a day tour. We Inca Trail trekkers get off the train at km 88, check in at the guard station and cross the Urubamba River to our first campsite, Q’ente.
 The first campsite at Q'ente |
Sounds like an easy Day One! However, after a morning snack, we take a hike to the ruins of Machu Q’ente and Wayna Q’ente, and have a good lesson on Inca culture and architecture. The view from the ruins is spectacular, looking up and down the Urubamba River and the Sacred Valley. We return from the 6 km hike, knowing that we have some beautiful scenery ahead of us on the trek!
A late lunch, rest, tea, evening meal and good conversation round out the day’s activities. Already we are experiencing the delicious food prepared for trekking groups! Each evening, the guide gives a briefing about the hiking for the next day and answers any questions. This first evening, we also sign an agreement that we will help conserve the natural area with good environmental practices, such as disposing of trash in organic and inorganic bags (which is carried out) and by not letting soap enter the ground.
 Highland home on the Inca Trail- this one has soda and water for sale -- and shoe repair! |
The guides are very knowledgeable about the Inca history, the local Quechua culture, and the flora and fauna of the area. They also have a good perspective of current Peruvian culture and events, to give an overall realistic picture of their country.
Day Two starts with breakfast at the campsite, and, after meeting our cook and porters (the camp crew), we head out towards the Llulluchupampa campsite, about 11 km westward and uphill. We leave the Urubamba River after viewing two more ruins, and go up the valleys of the Cusichaca and then the Llullucha Rivers. Beauty everywhere! There are hamlets enroute, and occasionally we pass local people with horses or burros going to their fields (the animals are allowed on the trail in this area). Now and then, there is a house with an open window, which acts as a mini-store with candy bars, colas and water for sale.
Lunch is prepared for us enroute. This means a sit-down meal in a dining tent, usually cooked, and very plentiful! Snacks for the day had been given to us in the morning, so we have to be careful not to over-stuff ourselves! We still have an afternoon of hiking to go!
The trail continues upward, gradually first, then steeper. We think it is very difficult, because the altitude causes us to be short of breath and we need to go slowly...and stop occasionally for a brief rest. We drink plenty of water!
Our campsite is in fog when we arrive. We are very near the highest pass (to be reached the next day) in a meadow area with mountains all around. Beautiful, even in fog. A latrine (we have our priorities) has been erected by the camp crew (who had passed us along the way), along with our tents and dining tent. Tea and snacks, followed by dinner and more conversation, and we are treated by a cleared sky and full moon before turning into bed!
 The Inca steps are to be respected. |
Day Three is the most difficult day, and not because of the rain! (What happened to the clear sky from the evening before?) This is the day that the trek goes over three passes. The first comes fairly quickly--if you are a fast hiker--and is Warmiwanusca (Dead Woman’s Pass) at 14,088 feet. Two others follow. The hike today is about 16 km....do-able in most hiker’s minds.
However, the most difficult part of the hiking today is the Inca steps! Up, up, up....then down, down, down. Then up, up, up....you get the idea. One comes to respect (and "love to hate") the work of the Incas! The steps go straight up and down (did they not know about switch backs?) and each step is a varying height. Even with hiking poles (we consider a must), they are a real challenge!
Enroute, there are the Inca ruins of Runkuraqay and Sayacmarca. Each time there are ruins, we take a break and are treated to more interesting stories of the Inca and the purpose and importance of these places. We are often reminded that, since the Inca had no written record and the Spaniards, who followed in the mid 1500’s, told the Incas story with a Spanish spin, there are a lot of things that we do not know about the Inca culture. Archeologists have done a lot of research and have ventured educated guesses, but one must be careful about saying "for a fact, this is what the Incas did or intended". Nevertheless, we are impressed by the immense amount of work that the Inca Empire accomplished in their 100 year rule.
 At the end of the day, the dining tent is a welcome sight. |
Our campsite this evening is actually at the third pass of the day-- Phuyupatamarca. Since we are on top of a ridge (misnamed a pass), we had beautiful views of the surrounding mountains. We arrive late in the day and just before tea, we observe a beautiful sunset. During supper, we are called outside and watch the full moon rise!
On the last morning (day four), you give tips and other gifts (optional) to your guide, cook and porters. We had a mini-ceremony, where we thanked the crew for their hard work and for their expert service. We gave them little gifts of pens, baseball caps (Adventures Within Reach, of course) and chocolate candy. Finally, we gave them their tips in appreciation for their work.
Day Four takes your group into Machu Picchu. The tour of Machu Picchu is Day Five. Our route is cut off at Wiñay Wayna ruins due to a landslide that had happened the preceding month, and the trail has not yet been repaired. We are assured that the trail would again be open by the first of July for the rest of the trekking season. As a result of the trail closure, we do not enter Machu Picchu via the famed Sun Gate; instead, we descend from Wiñay Wayna on the porter’s trail to km 107 of the railroad track and walk the track into Machu Picchu Pueblo (Aguas Calientes).
 Machu Picchu: The "Lost City of the Incas". |
The hike today is mostly downhill. That does not translate to "easy", but simply means that one does not lose one’s breath. The Inca steps (we are told 3,000 of them, but would estimate 5,000!) are difficult to negotiate, especially with the rain! However, we are treated to many beautiful flowers (as was true all along the trail), and take many pictures of the orchids and other brilliantly colored native blossoms.
Lunch at Wiñay Wayna is in a restaurant/hostel type building along side many other groups. Everyone converges on this place before continuing to Machu Picchu--the short Inca Trail trekkers (starting at km 104) as well as the other groups who started at km 77, 82, and 88. Nearby are the ruins of Wiñay Wayna, discovered in 1942 (more recently than Machu Picchu!). We have a cultural tour at that amazing ruins before descending with the many trekkers and porters, who all have to take the trail down to km 107 and hike the 5 km to Machu Picchu Pueblo. This is where you stay overnight in a hotel. Ah, showers and a bed! The day’s distance totaled about 11 km. It would be similar, had we taken the normal route into Machu Picchu, then a bus down to Machu Picchu Pueblo.
Day Five at Machu Picchu Historical Sanctuary is awesome, in spite of the fact that we did not enter through the Sun Gate the previous day...and despite fog and threatening rain. We meet our guide (same person as the trek) early, so we can avoid the crowds that arrive around ten in the morning.
 Wayna Picchu Mountain can be climbed for a beautiful view of the ruins. |
Our guide tells of the discovery of Machu Picchu by Hiram Bingham in 1911. We walk and learn all about the Inca citadel that was formed here on a narrow ridge near Huayna (Wayna) Picchu Mountain and Machu Picchu Mountain. It is believed that the settlement was built by Pachacuti (the Inca ruler) as a retreat for his royal family. Thus, it is a combination of temples, gathering places, residences and work areas. Indeed, we feel that it is a very sacred place and are awed by the architecture, setting, and the theories surrounding the Inca culture. One can only imagine what it was like then, the splendor of the "city", yet, at the same time, realize the relative simplicity of their lifestyle.
Although we do not take the opportunity to climb Wayna Picchu, there is plenty of time for that side trip. It is a must...if your legs and energy are still in good order! Instead we choose to take the shuttle bus back down to Machu Picchu Pueblo, to shop at the markets and rest!
We spend a free day at Machu Picchu Pueblo, before returning to Cusco via Ollantaytambo. The free day is a nice addition to your trip, but not included in the 10-day package.
As we return to our hotel in Cusco, we know that our "Adventures Within Reach" trek was truly an adventure! We never doubted it was "within reach", but the "adventure" well exceeded our expectations!
 Sandy, CLaudia and Barb in the clouds at Machu Picchu |
Inca Trail rules: The Inca Trail has recently imposed new regulations for the Inca Trail. These rules are designed to minimize the damage to the ruins and terrain, due to overuse, and intended to conserve this historical resource.
First, you must have a permit and you must have a guide. Permits are limited to 500 people per day (that includes your porters)! Thus, for July and August treks (most popular months), book well in advance!
Second, no disposable plastic water bottles are allowed. You may take the Nalgene type water bottles or your water hydration system.
Third, hiking poles are allowed, but you must use rubber tips, to minimize the impact on the terrain (rocks and earth).
Finally, the porters' association has succeeded in getting a limit to the weight they can carry on the trek. Since the porters carry your main pack, this translates to an 8 kilogram limit for your personal backpack/duffel. You may carry what you wish in your day pack. Indeed, you will have your water, jacket, raingear, camera, sunscreen and such, in your day pack.
Note also, that for much of the trail, they no longer allow burros, horses or llamas. Local people will have them and, of course, these highlanders share the trail in populated areas.
Meals: The meals included in the package are plentiful and delicious! We thought we had a special gourmet cook, but were told that he was typical! The cooks have in-service training and teach each other....with a bit of the usual competition for "presentation"! Breakfast includes tea, coffee, cocoa, along with a hot entree (eggs, pancakes, cereal) and rolls/bread. Lunches are cooked and include vegetables or salad (fresh) with a meat or possibly a pasta salad. The last day of the trek is a picnic lunch with sandwiches. Snacks are fruit (fresh oranges, bananas, tangerines, passion fruit) and candy bars/energy bars. Tea time includes whole grain rolls with butter and jam or crackers and cheese or popcorn. Dinners start with soup, then a hot entree (stews, chicken, spaghetti, or other meat/ fish), potatoes and veggies (cooked or salad) and dessert. Lunch at Machu Picchu is at a restaurant.
Equipment: The outfitter for Adventure Within Reach provides excellent sleeping tents (roomy for two people and their gear), full- sized backpacking Thermarests, dining tents with table and folding chairs/stools, portable latrines, and boiled water (to fill your water containers each day). The AWR Peru website has a complete packing list.
Time to go: In case you are inspired to go to Peru for trekking, here are the good months: May through October. November through March is very wet (summer season). They close the Inca Trail in February for trail clean up. April is iffy...we had both sun and rain days. July and August are the best, as they are the driest, but they are also the coldest (winter season).