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Trip Journals: Peru
April 2006
Cordillera Blanca: Six-Days on the Santa Cruz Loop
by Barbara Colliander
Note: Adventures Within Reach sent two of its staff to Peru in April to experience, first-hand, two of the treks offered on our web site: The Inca Trail to Machu Picchu and the Cordillera Blanca. In July we told of our adventures on the Inca Trail. This article describes the Santa Cruz Loop in the Cordillera Blanca. This trek is a portion of AWR’s 9-day Cordillera Blanca trek. Future articles will tell about day trips and cultural tours that are excellent additions to a Peru adventure!
If you find out it’s too late to get a permit for the Inca Trail or you just want to experience a trek with snow-capped mountains in the Peruvian Andes then the Santa Cruz Loop in the Cordillera Blanca is for you! We were eager to get into the Huascaran National Park to view the peaks that we had heard about from climbers: Alpamayo, Huascaran North and South, Chacraraju, Piramide and Pisco.
The 5-day trek seemed, on paper, too formidable for us so we asked for an extra day to slow the pace down. We will thus describe a 6-day trek but be assured that most people are just fine with five days!
In order to get to the Cordillera Blanca you take a bus north from Lima. Seven hours and 400 km later you arrive at Huaraz, the largest city in the vicinity. We stayed just north of Huaraz in the town of Monterrey at El Patio Hotel. El Patio is a rustic villa-style hotel with a courtyard in the center. Breakfast was included in the price of the room.
It was strongly suggested that we spend a day or two acclimatizing to the altitude (10,404 ft). This is a good idea if you come directly from a low elevation. There are many possibilities for day hikes and tours in the area (another newsletter) to get accustomed to the altitude...before heading higher!
THE TREK
After a good night’s rest at El Patio Hotel and a “typical” breakfast of eggs, buns, jam, coffee, tea and juice we were picked up by our guide, driver, and cook! Our guide, Miguel, had extensive experience in all areas of the Cordillera Blanca and was very knowledgeable about the culture, flora and fauna. We piled our backpacks in the van and took off, not knowing where we were heading! They shared a map with us so we could see the route we were taking and how we would trek the Santa Cruz Loop. Our group would start at Vaqueria and end at Cashapampa. Most groups do it in reverse. We found that the route we took was easier and the views quite spectacular due to the angle of the sun.
Day One began with our group stopping at the entrance to the Huascaran National Park to pay the park fees then driving to Laguna Llanganuco, a beautiful lake in the midst of the mountains. There, we walked around to read the interpretive signs and watch local residents preparing food and dances for an exhibit. We moved on to take a longer walk up the Quebrada Yanapaqcha Valley alongside a beautiful stream. Many of the snow-capped mountains were visible, most notably the signature peak of the Cordillera Blanca, Huascaran, and opposite that, Huandoy. Their white peaks were awesome!
Continuing in the van, we climbed to the pass at 15,635 ft (4767m), stopped for pictures and ate a delicious lunch prepared our cook Raul. Finally, we got out and started walking on an old Inca trail with Miguel. Soon we arrived at our first campsite, Vaqueria (at 12,135 ft), where Raul and Santos (the burro driver) had set up camp and Raul was preparing tea and supper. It should be noted that we did not have any porters on this trek. The burros carried all our gear...and it was quite a load!
Miguel was a good story teller so we had a pleasant evening over supper, coffee and tea while he told of his escapades and about the local people and customs. The descriptions of the local farmers were most informative and helped us to understand and appreciate their way of life.
Day Two. We awoke the next morning to a beautiful view of Chopicalqui Peak as a back drop to our tents (picture time!). The sun made it brilliant! After morning tea and washing up we ate breakfast and were on the trail by 8:15 a.m. Day two was the first “real” day of hiking.
At mid-morning Santos passed us with the burros as we climbed gradually through the valley. Raul also went ahead to prepare our lunch. During the day we were impressed with the mountain peaks – one that looked like the Matterhorn was Chacraraju Peak! More pictures!
We hiked through farmland, passing farmhouses where local people were working and children were playing. Miguel spoke with many of them because the men of the families are burro drivers for the trekking groups. They were glad that the season was beginning (April through October) and wondered when their trainings would be held. It is a wonderful camaraderie that they have with each other!
In the afternoon we met small groups of backpackers hiking without a guide. Some were alone and ahead of their group. One young woman asked us where a campground was and found out she had passed it. Had she kept going she would never have met up with her group! We finally persuaded her to go back and later we saw her setting up camp with her group. She had been two hours ahead of them!
When we reached our camp at the end of a ridge we found ourselves in a beautiful meadow in the Paria/Tuctu area (13,125 ft). We were tired after 11 km of hiking uphill but knew the real climb was going to be the next day!
Day Three. On this day our goal was to continue up the valley to Punta Union Pass, a high point of 15,580 feet, so we were on the trail by 8:30 a.m.. We had spits of rain off-and-on all day and we advanced slowly due to the rocks and ragged trail. We were often short of breath due to the high altitude.
We ate lunch next to a lake then made the final push up to the pass. We were rewarded at the top by beautiful views on both sides. Between clouds and a bit of mist the scenery was awe inspiring: valleys below us, surrounded by towering ice and snow capped mountains. On the other side of the pass we got our first view of Artesonraju Peak that resembled the Paramount Motion Pictures logo.
We reached Taullipampa campsite very late in the afternoon after a 13 km day. Snacks and supper and then to bed! We were exhausted!
Day Four. For our “extra day” we had wanted to split the day between rest and moving ahead. Miguel suggested instead, that we hike up the Arhuaycocha Valley to a moraine lake high in the mountains. We thought it was a good idea since we would get to see Alpamayo Peak up close. It was a “must see” to be sure.
When we reached the lake, Raul had our lunch ready and we ate alongside the glaciated lake where, during certain seasons there are ice chunks floating on the lake. En route back to our campsite we saw several Andean flickers and many wildflowers (photo ops, of course). The Quisuar campsite, named after a native tree, was in a lovely setting next to a rushing stream. We were treated to a supper of trout that Santos had caught while we were hiking!
Day Five was spent walking mostly down hill as we headed for Llamacoral, a spit of a hamlet with a “store”. Most people would look forward to buying a treat or drink there but we were totally satisfied with all the meals and goodies we got each day!
The trail was very pleasant with packed sand, mud, gravel and water (as in bogs and streams). It was a welcoming change from all the rocky terrain we had experienced!
Since the burros and horse were allowed to roam the hills during the night, in the morning, the burro driver had to go up in the mountains to call for them. It is amazing that they were all ready to go at the appointed time in the morning! Santos had acquired an extra burro for the day because his horse had gotten loose and headed downhill to Cashapampa. He needed the burro to carry some of the gear! Later in the afternoon the horse was returned by a nephew and the burro went back to his range land.
During the day we passed Llamacoral, with its campsite and very tiny store equipped with a wind powered generator. We were amused. Do not expect to get a beer there!
Most backpacking groups starting in Cashapampa stay at Llamacora for their first night. Our group continued down to our campsite at “the beach”, a much more private and beautiful area. The “beach” is really a lush grassy area right next to a rushing stream. Very picturesque! We recommend that everyone request to camp there!
Day Six. The sun was shining brightly as we got up and had breakfast. After Santos “found” all the burros and had them together we gave our crew gifts and tips and thanked them profusely for their service and their patience with our slow hiking! They were most appreciative! The last day proved to be a considerable downhill stint. It was very rocky and steep; in fact we thought it to be very treacherous. We often commented that we were glad we were not going UP!
We were sorry to be ending our trek that day because we were having such a great experience. The trail followed along the gushing river and the landscape was truly beautiful. The trail was one with a stream, now and then, so we had to do a bit of rock hopping to stay dry!
We took many pictures of flowers along the way!
On the trail we met groups of men and boys from Cashapampa, the village below, who were coming up to cut brush and clear the trail. They had burros and horses packed with supplies for the weekend. Some had bamboo fishing poles. They must have been the cooks! Most of the others had pick axes, shovels and machetes. There must have been at least 200 men and boys in all. Again, Miguel knew several of them because they were burro drivers he had worked with in the past.
When we got down to the village of Cashapampa we met the driver who had dropped us off five days earlier! We all went to a favorite out-of-the-way place for a picnic lunch prepared by Raul. Santos had already unloaded the burros and headed back the on the same trail we come. It would take him only two days to take the burros and his horse back home the way we had trekked!
We returned to the El Patio Hotel, said our good-byes and spent the evening hanging out damp clothes and sleeping bags and taking showers! We were weary with a tiredness that one has after the exertion of a trek! But we were delighted with the experience and spent several hours downloading and looking at our pictures! A fun way to end the trip!
The next morning we traveled by bus to Lima for a hotel night there and a flight home the next morning.
Meals: The meals included in the trek are plentiful and delicious! We thought the cook was excellent! The cooks have in-service training and teach each other....with a bit of natural competition for “presentation”! Breakfast includes tea, coffee, cocoa, along with a hot entree (eggs, pancakes, cereal) and rolls/bread. Lunches are cooked and include fresh vegetables or salad with a meat or possibly a pasta salad. The last day of the trek is a picnic lunch with cheviche, potatoes and bread. Snacks are fresh fruit (oranges and bananas) and candy bars/energy bars. Tea time includes whole grain rolls with butter and jam, crackers and cheese, or popcorn. Dinners start with fresh soup (vegetable and pumpkin are popular), then a hot entree (stews, chicken, spaghetti or other meat/fish), potatoes, fresh vegetables or salad and dessert (an example is mango slices with vanilla sauce). We were treated to fresh trout twice and one lunch was causa (layered cold mashed yellow potatoes, tuna and mashed avocado) and a green salad. We were served a chicken stroganoff accompanied by fresh vegetables one evening that was outstanding!
Equipment: The outfitter for Adventure Within Reach provides excellent sleeping tents (room for two people and their gear), full-sized backpacking Thermarests, dining tents with table and folding chairs/stools, portable latrines and boiled water (to fill your water containers each day). The AWR Peru web site has a complete packing list.
http://www.adventureswithinreach.com/peru/faq/packinglist.html
Time to go: Now that you are inspired to go to Peru for a trek, consider going when the weather is best, May through October. November through March is very wet (summer season) and they close the Inca Trail in February for trail clean up. April is iffy...we had both sun and rain days. July and August are the best as they are the driest but they are also the coldest (winter season).
Regulations: The Cordillera Blanca trails do not have the strict rules that the Inca Trail does. Burros are allowed and therefore used extensively for packing gear and food. Groups are not required to have a guide, however, we strongly recommend one to help you “stay on track” and to experience trekking with an expert on the flora, fauna, culture and history of the region. When trekking with Adventures Within Reach you will have a bilingual guide. Each group must pay for permits to go into the national park and to stay at the campsites there. Finally, the National Park is concerned about conservation in the Park. They are aware of the impact that hiking groups have on the land and they are also aware that the cattle, horses and burros that graze there also have an impact. The local farmers are becoming more tuned-in to good conservation practices. It’s an uphill process of education and practice!
For information on this trek and other travel opportunities, please see our web site: www.AdventuresWithinReach.com
- Adventures Within Reach
- 877-232-5836
- info@adventureswithinreach.com